Gimp Braiding Projects by White, Charles E.




GIMP BRAIDING PROJECTS _Written and Illustrated by Charles E. White, Jr._

For the convenience of craftsmen, we have assembled in this booklet the directions for many of the popular gimp projects, with suggestions for a multitude of patterns which can be made with any desired color combination. These directions have been completely illustrated in color, so that every step can readily be understood, since the true simplicity of braiding has often been obscured by complicated instructions and illustrations.

The material itself is a special coated tape made in various colors and shapes. Standard gimp and Titan lacing are flat and 3/32″ wide. The special ¼″ wide gimp also is flat. Round or cord gimp is available in either 3/64″ or 5/64″ diameters. These various types of gimp can be purchased by the yard, though they are much less expensive when secured by the spool. Leather lacings may be used in place of gimp where particular effects are desired.

General Directions

Standard and wide gimps have a seam on one face. Always start braiding with this seam next to the core and be careful at the edge of the braid to fold each strand so that the seam remains inside or on the back of the work. Titan lacing is seamless, and therefore can be used with either surface on the outside of the braid. A well-made article, however, should have no twisted strands, whether made of standard gimp, or of seamless Titan lacing.

In all work with gimp it is essential to keep all the strands pulled tight, and to adjust every row of stitches, in order to ensure that the braid will be uniform.

Long working strands may be tied in coils to keep them from snarling. If it is necessary to splice a strand, slice away half the thickness of the gimp on both of the ends to be joined. Overlap the two ends and lead them through several stitches, then trim off the extra material. (Fig. 1.) If it is necessary to set the braid aside before it is finished, use ordinary paper clips or knot the strands to keep them in place.

Steel Bracelet Cores

The type of core most widely used for bracelet making is formed from a strip of spring steel either ½″ or ¼″ wide. Make a narrow V-shaped slit half the width of the band at about ½″ from one end. (Fig. 2A.) Mark off beyond this cut the circumference of your bracelet (usually 8-9 inches) and make another slit half way through from the opposite side. Clip off the metal about ½″ beyond this second slit. Connect the band as shown, with the ends on the inside of the bracelet. (Figs. 3 and 4.) Set the band on a solid surface and pound with a mallet or hammer until the edges fit smoothly.

[Illustration: Fig. 1]

[Illustration: Fig. 2]

[Illustration: Fig. 3]

[Illustration: Fig. 4]

[Illustration: Fellowcrafters GIMP BRAIDING PROJECTS]

_Basket-Weave Bracelets_

[Illustration: {Bracelet}]

The recently developed basket-weave bracelets are among the easiest and most popular projects for flat gimp. This is in part due to the fact that they offer so many possibilities for originality of design. The standard gimp types, for instance, may be made with from one to seven colors, so it is possible to match them with any color schemes of belts or leashes, or to make them harmonize with any costume.

Wide Gimp Basket-Weave Bracelet

Materials required: 3 strands of wide gimp, 12″ each 1 strand of wide gimp, 60″ ¾″ steel bracelet core

Fasten the ends of the short strands to the band with a paper clip in the position shown in figure 5. Leaving one half inch or so free at the start, weave the long strand under one—over one—under one. (Fig. 6.) Bring it around through the band and weave the next row of stitches over one—under on—over one. (Fig. 7.) Pull the strands tight.

[Illustration: Fig. 5]

[Illustration: Fig. 6]

[Illustration: Fig. 7]

Continue alternating these two steps all the way around the band. If the pattern does not come out even, rip out the last few stitches and weave them again closer together to gain space for the extra stitch. Then remove the paper clip and weave each short strand back loosely through the first two stitches at the beginning. (Fig. 8.) Cut off the beginning end of the weaving strand at the edge of the bracelet. (Fig. 9.)

[Illustration: Fig. 8]

[Illustration: Fig. 9]

Finish off by braiding along the start of the weaving strand (Fig. 10), around the outside of the band. This makes the last weaving row under one—over one—under one. Pull all the ends tight and clip them off close to the braid.

[Illustration: Fig. 10]

The pattern shown above is made with three colors according to the direction illustrations. Checkerboard patterns are made by using one color on the band and a second color for weaving. Four more two-color patterns are made by placing the lighter color at the center of the band or at the edge, and by using a dark or a light weaving strand. Three-color patterns have six additional possibilities for variation on the same principle.

[Illustration: {Additional patterns}]

[Illustration: {Additional patterns}]

Standard Gimp Basket-Weave Bracelet

Materials required: 5 strands of narrow gimp, 12″ each 1 strand of narrow gimp, 3¼ yds. ¾″ steel bracelet core

Fasten the five short strands to the band as shown in figure 12. Then weave across the band in any of the ways shown below, bringing the strand through the center after each row. (Fig. 13.) Several two-color combinations of these stitches are suggested here, but do not let these limit your originality, as there are very many possible patterns. Finish off the bracelet as described on page 2.

[Illustration: Fig. 12]

[Illustration: Fig. 13]

Wood Core Basket-Weave Bracelet

Materials required: 5 strands of standard gimp, 12″ each 1 strand of standard gimp, 5 yds. 1 standard wood core

Made in exactly the same way as the preceding. The beginning strands may be tied in place or fastened with adhesive tape.

Additional Projects

The directions already given apply equally well to all of the following projects. Six-strand standard gimp bracelets are made like five-strand bracelets with an additional 12″ strand on the core. Wood core napkin rings like that shown above require three, four, or five 8″ core strands and a 3 yd. weaving strand. Napkin rings made on shortened ¼″ bands (6″ between the notches) require either five or six 8″ standard gimp core strands and a 2¼ yd. weaving strand. Narrow band bracelets of the type shown at the top of the page can be made of standard gimp with three or four 12″ core strands and a 2¼ yd. weaving strand. Narrow band napkin rings require three or four 8″ core strands and a 1¾ yd. weaving strand.

[Illustration: {Two-color combinations}]

_Leashes and Lanyards_

[Illustration: {Leash}]

Standard Dog Leash

Materials required: 4 strands of standard gimp, 3½ yds. each 1 strand of core material, 1 yd. 30″ 1 standard or French leash snap soft wire for binding, 5″

The stout core necessary for a dog leash may be made of standard core braid or of extra heavy twine. Fold one end back to make a loop 7″ long. Bind the end with wire. Put the other end through the eye of the snap, then bend it back and bind it with wire to make a loop 1½″ long. (Fig. 14.)

[Illustration: Fig. 14]

Tie the center of the strands to the center of the core with one end of a piece of cord. Tie the other end of the cord to any firm object so that you can keep the leash pulled tight while you are braiding. Arrange the strands as in figure 15.

[Illustration: Fig. 15]

Braid toward one end as follows: Bring the upper right strand around the back, forward between the left strands, and across the core to lie parallel to the other right strand. In successive steps, merely take the uppermost strand—left or right as the case may be—around the back, between the strands of the opposite side, and across the front. Keep the stitches pushed tightly together to achieve a uniform result. (Figs. 16 and 17.)

[Illustration: Fig. 16]

[Illustration: Fig. 17]

Continue around the loop until you come back to the main braid. Then make a square as follows: Holding the braid as in figure 18, cross the two rear strands. (Fig. 19.) Bring the rear right strand down over the forward right strand. (Fig. 20.) Loop the latter over the first strand and bring it down between the other two strands. (Fig. 21.) Loop the third strand similarly over all the strands and bring it down in back. (Fig. 22.) Bring the fourth strand over the third and through the loop of the first. (Fig. 23.) Pull the strands tight (Fig. 24) so that the top appears as a square.

[Illustration: Fig. 18]

[Illustration: Fig. 19]

[Illustration: Fig. 20]

[Illustration: Fig. 21]

[Illustration: Fig. 22]

[Illustration: Fig. 23]

[Illustration: Fig. 24]

Then make a square braid. Fold one strand back on itself. (Fig. 25.) Fold the next strand (Fig. 26) back on itself over the first one. Fold the third strand over the second. (Fig. 27.) Fold the last strand over the third and through the loop of the first. (Fig. 28.)

[Illustration: Fig. 25]

[Illustration: Fig. 26]

[Illustration: Fig. 27]

[Illustration: Fig. 28]

Complete the stitch by drawing all the strands tight. Continue making squares in this way until the strands are only about 2½″ long. The spiral braiding described on page 6 may be used in place of this square braiding or in combination with it.

End the braid with a lock knot by looping each strand under the loose end of the overlying strand and through the top stitch as shown in figures 29-32. Pull the ends tight, making certain as you do so that none of the strands appear twisted. Then clip off the ends of the strands. (Fig. 33.)

[Illustration: Fig. 29]

[Illustration: Fig. 30]

[Illustration: Fig. 31]

[Illustration: Fig. 32]

[Illustration: Fig. 33]

Follow the same steps in making the other half of the leash.

Suggested Variations

Spiral braiding may be substituted after the first square. This is made in exactly the same way as square braiding except that each strand is bent over the top of the braid on the opposite side of the core, rather than back along itself. (Figs. 34-38.)

[Illustration: Fig. 34]

[Illustration: Fig. 35]

[Illustration: Fig. 36]

[Illustration: Fig. 37]

[Illustration: Fig. 38]

After completing the loops at the ends, many craftsmen prefer to make several more ordinary stitches before starting the squares.

Six-Strand Leash

Materials required: 6 strands of standard gimp. 3½ yds. each 1 strand of core braid, 1 yd. 30″ 1 standard or French snap

Six-strand round braiding can also be used for leashes. It is made in much the same way, except that the top strand is brought around the back, then forward below the first strand, over the second strand, and under the third strand. (Fig. 39.) When in doubt about the order of the strands, remember to weave the top strand so that it passes over the _front_ strand on the opposite side. You can see this clearly in figure 39.

[Illustration: Fig. 39]

When making the square braiding, lay an opposite pair of strands along the core and weave the remaining four as described above. The strands on the core may be clipped with the others after making the lock knot.

[Illustration: {Leash}]

Standard Lanyard

[Illustration: {Lanyard}]

Materials required: 2 strands of standard gimp, 3½ yds. each 1 snap

Lanyards are made in much the same way as leashes, but without the core. The snap is fastened securely so that the work can be pulled against it. Then both strands are run half way through the ring to give four equal braiding strands. Cross the strands on the ring in exactly the way shown in figure 40. This arrangement corresponds to the starting position of the leash. The braiding is done in the same way as that described for the leash, beginning with the upper right strand. (Fig. 16.)

When only one foot of lacing is left, form the loop of the lanyard by folding the braid back as in figure 41. Cross the two lower strands behind the main braid (Fig. 42), and finish with the square or spiral braid and the lock knot as described for the leash. If you wish the square braid to slip along the lanyard, braid it loosely.

The alternative pattern shown is made by arranging the strands at the start as in figure 43.

[Illustration: Fig. 40]

[Illustration: Fig. 41]

[Illustration: Fig. 42]

[Illustration: Fig. 43]

Six-Strand Lanyard

Materials required: 3 strands of small round gimp, 3½ yds. each 1 snap

This is made in the same way as the six-strand leash by starting as follows: The rear left strand is brought around its forward part and bent to the right. (Fig. 44.) Both parts of the middle strand are brought to the right. (Fig. 45.) The forward part of the right strand is woven to the left over one—under one—over one, and the rear part of the same strand is woven over two—under one. Start braiding with the upper right strand.

[Illustration: Fig. 44]

[Illustration: Fig. 45]

Other Types of Leashes and Lanyards

Unusual and very attractive results can be obtained by utilizing round gimp in making these projects. Leashes and lanyards, for instance, of either the six- or four-strand type are very smart when made with small round gimp. The larger cord gimp is suitable for four- or six-strand leashes and for four-strand lanyards. Some of these possibilities are illustrated on this page. The amount of material required is the same as for the standard gimp projects and the method of working is identical. It is advisable, however, to use picture wire as a core for the leashes. When making articles of large round gimp, it will also be found more satisfactory to use spiral braiding in place of the square braiding.

Heavy leashes for large dogs can be made of wide gimp braided over a stout rope core.

_Braided Bracelets_

[Illustration: {Bracelets}]

These illustrated bracelets need no introduction, since they are standard as braiding projects. They are ordinarily made with from one to four colors, but can be made with as many as eight colors, so there is a wide range of possibilities for bright patterns. The braid itself is an eight strand variation of the braiding used for leashes and lanyards.

Standard Flat-Weave Bracelet

Materials required: 4 strands of standard gimp, 2¼ yds. each 1 steel band, ¾″ wide

Hold the center of all four strands against the inside of the band about ½″ beyond the joint. (Fig. 46.) If standard gimp is used, be sure to have the seams next to the metal. Fold the strands on the left diagonally down across the band, holding them with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. (Fig. 47.)

[Illustration: Fig. 46]

[Illustration: Fig. 47]

Weave the top right strand across the band under the first, over the second, under the third, and over the fourth strands. (Fig. 48.) Weave the next strand over the first, under the second, over the third, and under the fourth strands. (Fig. 49.) Weave the third strand under one—over one—under one—over one, and weave the last strand under two—over one—under one. Make certain that none of the strands are twisted, then tighten the braid on the band until the gimp lies flat without bulging. (Fig. 50.)

[Illustration: Fig. 48]

[Illustration: Fig. 49]

[Illustration: Fig. 50]

Pass the top right strand through the bracelet. Bring it forward between the two middle strands at the left. Then fold it back across the band over the third strand and under the fourth. (Fig. 51.) Pull it tight. Next do the same with the upper left strand (Fig. 52), and continue alternately weaving the top left and right strands in this way. The last strand woven shows as the lowest on the inside, so you can always tell which strand to weave next.

[Illustration: Fig. 51]

[Illustration: Fig. 52]

If the pattern does not come out even when you have woven the entire distance around the bracelet, ease the braid back around the band to gain whatever additional space you need in order to complete the design.

Clip the ends of the strands to make them pointed. Then weave the lower right strand under the beginning strand on the same side. (Fig. 53.) Weave the lower left strand over the first and under the second beginning strands on the left. (Fig. 54.) Then weave the free strand on the left over one—under one, thus completing the face of the braid with all the strands woven to the edge. (Fig. 55.)

[Illustration: Fig. 53]

[Illustration: Fig. 54]

[Illustration: Fig. 55]

To finish off, work inside the bracelet. Weave the upper left strand under the first two slanting strands on the right. (Fig. 56.) Weave the upper right strand under the two opposite strands. (Fig. 57.)

[Illustration: Fig. 56]

[Illustration: Fig. 57]

Weave the rest of the strands in the same way (Fig. 58), then draw the work tight and trim off the ends.

Many additional patterns can be made by varying the position of the strands at the start. The strands may simply be crossed on the inside (Fig. 59), to make one series of patterns. They may be looped to bring both ends of the same strand on the same side for another group of patterns. Titan lacing may be looped flat as in figure 60, but standard gimp should have the strands arranged as in figure 61 so that the seam sides will be toward the band. Combinations of straight, crossed, and looped strands offer further possibilities for patterns.

[Illustration: Fig. 58]

[Illustration: Fig. 59]

[Illustration: Fig. 60]

Eight separate strands 4 ft. long may be started as shown in figure 62. An ordinary paper clip is sufficient to hold the braid in place. Weaving with eight strands extends the possibilities for unusual patterns, but care must be exercised to keep the designs simple.

[Illustration: Fig. 61]

[Illustration: Fig. 62]

Wood-Core Flat-Weave Bracelet

Materials required: 4 strands of standard gimp, 2¾ yds. each 1 standard wood core

The stunning bracelets of the type shown here are made in exactly the same way as the standard bracelets.

Narrow Flat-Weave Bracelet

Materials required: 4 strands of standard gimp, 1½ yds. each 1 steel band, ½″ wide

These, also, are made in the same way as the standard bracelets, offering the same opportunities for patterns.

Six-Strand Flat-Weave Bracelets

The preceding bracelets can be made equally well with three long strands instead of four. The only difference in the braiding is that the strand which is carried around the back should be brought forward between the first two strands and woven across the band over one—under one. (Fig. 63 .) The lengths of the strands required are as follows:

Wide-band bracelet—3 strands, 2 yds. each Narrow-band bracelet—3 strands, 1½ yds. each Wood-core bracelet—3 strands, 2½ yds. each

[Illustration: Fig. 63]

Napkin Rings

Any of the above can be made as napkin rings. If the core used is 6″ in circumference (in metal bands, 6″ between the notches), use three-fourths as much material as is required for the corresponding bracelet.

[Illustration: {Rings}]

_Round Gimp Bracelets_

[Illustration: {Bracelets}]

These bracelets are typical of the colorful possibilities of the new round gimp. Both are made entirely of gimp without any special accessories, and require very little time for the braiding.

Square-Knotted Bracelet

Materials required: 2 strands of small cord gimp, 1¾ yds. each 1 strand of wide gimp, 18″

Make a double coil of wide gimp of whatever diameter is desired. Cut both ends on the same slant, so that there will always be only two thicknesses of material in the finished core. (Fig. 64.)

[Illustration: Fig. 64]

Tie the two strands of cord gimp together at one end, leaving about 1″ beyond the knot to use later for finishing. Place the knot at the left side of the core. Select the color which is to show on the band and lead it across the outside of the core. (Fig. 65.) Lead the other strand through the core, cross it over the top strand (Fig. 66), lead it back under the core and up through the loop at the left side. (Fig. 67.) This process makes half a square knot.

[Illustration: Fig. 65]

[Illustration: Fig. 66]

[Illustration: Fig. 67]

In all succeeding knots, merely choose the color which is to show on the band and lead it across in front. (Fig. 68.) Then loop the other strand over it, around the back, and forward through the loop on the opposite side. (Fig. 69.)

[Illustration: Fig. 68]

[Illustration: Fig. 69]

When you have gone completely around the bracelet, untie the starting knot and tuck in the loose ends.

All the patterns shown above are made in exactly this way. The core may either be of the same color as one of the working strands, or of a third color to add little decorative touches between the stitches.

Spiral Bracelet

Materials required: 2 strands of heavy round gimp, 2½ yds. each 1 strand of heavy round gimp, 10″

Cross the strands at their midpoints. (Fig. 70.) Bring the right under strand around over the next two strands and down behind. (Fig. 71.) Do the same with the second strand. (Fig. 72.) Bring the third strand around and down through the loop of the first. (Fig. 73.) Bring the last strand around and down through both the first and second loops. (Fig. 74.) Insert the core through the middle so that about 1″ is beyond the knot. Then pull all the strands tight. (Fig. 75.)

[Illustration: Fig. 70]

[Illustration: Fig. 71]

[Illustration: Fig. 72]

[Illustration: Fig. 73]

[Illustration: Fig. 74]

[Illustration: Fig. 75]

Continue braiding for about 8″ in this same way. Then fit the braid around your wrist to find the bracelet size needed. Cut the long end of the core so that it just touches the beginning of the braid. (Fig. 76.) Overlap the two ends of the core, and complete the braid over the doubled strand. Tuck the loose ends through the beginning stitches and trim them off close to the braid.

[Illustration: Fig. 76]

_Braided Belts_

Belts to match bracelets and leashes or to harmonize with various costumes are favorite gimp projects. They may be made from any type of gimp. The popular twelve-strand braids can have as many as six colors, if so desired.

The choice of the buckle is quite important. Standard buckles with tongues are the most widely used. Special decorative effects can be achieved with tongueless buckles. Other attractive results can be produced by covering the buckle with gimp, using half hitches (Fig. 77) or basket stitches as shown in figure 78.

[Illustration: Fig. 77]

[Illustration: Fig. 78]

12-Strand Belt

Materials required: 6 strands of standard gimp or Titan lacing, 3¼ yds. each 3 strands of standard gimp or Titan lacing, 6″ each 1 buckle for ¾″ or 1″ belt width

Fasten the buckle securely so that you can pull against it to keep the braiding tight. Hang three strands of gimp on each side of the tongue, so that you have twelve strands of equal length. Since the order of the strands determines the pattern, arrange the strands on the buckle as indicated for any of the patterns on page 11.

Bring the back part of the left strand forward and bend it across the other section of the same strand right side up. (Fig. 79.) Bring the lower part of the second strand forward and weave it over the front portion and under the forward part of the left strand. (Fig. 80.) In the same way bring each strand around to the front and weave it to the left over one—under one—over one—etc. When the work appears as in figure 81, check the strands to see that they are all right side up before beginning to braid.

[Illustration: Fig. 79]

[Illustration: Fig. 80]

[Illustration: Fig. 81]

Take the upper right strand and weave it across over one—under one—etc. (Fig. 82.) Then weave the upper left strand under one—over one—under one—etc. (Fig. 83) Bend the strands at the edge as in figure 84. If Titan lacing is used, the strands may be folded at the edge instead as in figure 85. Continue weaving the right and left strands in this way.

[Illustration: Fig. 82]

[Illustration: Fig. 83]

[Illustration: Fig. 84]

[Illustration: Fig. 85]

When you have woven the full length you need for the belt, make the last row from left to right and fasten the strands with a paper clip as shown in figure 86. Turn the belt around and weave each strand loosely back along itself. (Figs. 87 and 88.) Pull the strands tight, then trim the ends close to the braid.

[Illustration: Fig. 86]

[Illustration: Fig. 87]

[Illustration: Fig. 88]

Make the loop of simple three strand braiding sewed at the ends and sewed to the belt 1″ below the buckle.

Little need be said of the color patterns shown on page 11. At one end of each we have indicated the positions of the strands on the buckle.

Other Types of Braided Belts

These same directions can be followed for belts with any number of strands looped through a buckle. One of the most effective of these variations can be made with wide gimp. This belt, as made ten strands wide and a yard long calls for a 1¾″ buckle and five weaving strands, 3½ yds. each.

[Illustration: {Additional belt patterns}]

_Materials and Supplies_

Although there are several qualities of gimp lacing on the market, only the highest grade is fit for use in craft work. The gimp we carry is made to order under our own strict specifications. It is waterproof, and therefore washable. It has unusual tensile strength and will withstand much abuse. The large amount we now sell makes it possible to offer this improved gimp at lower prices.

[Illustration: {Gimp braid}]

GL-1 STANDARD GIMP—3/32″ wide. Flat, seamless, lustrous, washable. Colors: gold, silver, white, red, orange, yellow, blue, tan, brown, black, and green. yd. $.02; 50 yds. $.85; 100 yds. $1.50 500 or more yds. $1.35 per 100 yds.

GL-3 TITAN LACING—3/32″ wide. Colors: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, tan, brown, black, white, gold, and silver. Extra strong. Has half-oval cross-section. yd. $.02; 50 yds. $.85; 100 yds. $1.50

LL-1 GOAT LEATHER LACING—3/32″ wide. Colors: natural, red, green, blue, brown, and black. yd. $.06; 50 yds. $2.50; 100 yds. $4.75

LL-3 SPECIAL GOAT LACING—5/64″ wide—tan only. yd. $.04; 50 yds. $1.75; 100 yds. $3.00

GL-4 WIDE GIMP—¼″ wide. Colors: red, green, navy blue, brown, white, and black. yd. $.05; 100 yds. $3.75 Gold or silver yd. $.10; 100 yds. $7.50

GL-5 ROUND GIMP No. 3—Colors: red, orange, yellow, green, light and medium blue, black, brown, white, gold, gray, and silver yd. $.02: 50 yds. $.85; 100 yds. $1.50

GL-6 EXTRA HEAVY ROUND GIMP No. 5—Colors: red, yellow, green, blue, brown, white, gray, and black yd. $.035; 50 yds. $1.60; 100 yds. $3.00

CORE BRAID—for leashes yd. $.03; 50 yds. $1.35; 100 yds. $2.25

WIRE CORE—for leashes yd. $.02; 50 yds. $.85

STEEL BRACELET BANDS—These steel bands are tempered to the proper hardness to have an excellent springiness. ½″ wide ea. $.04; doz. $.40 ¾″ wide ea. $.05; doz. $.50

WOODEN BRACELET CORES—light blanks made of hard wood, attractively rounded on the outer surface. ea. $.15; doz. $1.50

WOODEN NAPKIN RING CORES ea. $.10; doz. $1.00

CENTRAL BAR NICKEL BUCKLES ea. $.10; doz. $1.10

[Illustration: {Buckles}]

STANDARD BELT BUCKLES—brass or nickel finish for belt widths of 1″ (the size recommended for the standard 12-strand belt). 1¼″, and 1½″ ea. $.07; doz. $.77

SMALL BUCKLES—assorted sizes and shapes ea. $.05; doz. $.55

GT-16 FID $.35

LANYARD OR WATCH-GUARD SNAPS—bright brass nickel finish ea. $.05; doz. $.50 ea. $.06; doz. $.60

DOG LEASH SNAPS—standard type with swivel ea. $.06; doz. $.66

FRENCH DOG LEASH SNAPS ea. $.15; doz. $1.65

DOG COLLAR BUCKLE AND “D” ea. $.15; doz. $1.65


At the head of the instructions for each type of project will be found a list of necessary materials. Many of these lists prescribe lengths of gimp in fractions of yards.

In ordering, order to the _nearest full yard_, as we do not fill orders for fractional yards of gimp.

Great savings are effected by purchasing gimp in 50 or 100 yard spools and cutting for yourself the required lengths for gimp projects.

BRAIDING AND KNOTTING by C. A. Belash—This Beacon Handicraft Series text book is proving very popular. It gives explicit directions for all types of braiding and knotting with both gimp and cord, and it contains complete directions for making many attractive articles. Clothbound, with about 200 illustrations grouped on more than 50 plates $1.00

SQUARE KNOTTING by P. C. Herwig—These illustrated booklets contain full instructions and suggestions for popular projects No. 1 $.15; No. 2 $.25; No. 3 $1.00

Shipping charges are to be paid by the buyer. All prices subject to change without notice.

Materials and suggestions for other crafts are contained in our sixth catalogue. This catalogue will be sent to you on receipt of 25c (rebatable).

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Transcriber’s Notes

—Modified references to pages and illustrations, so as to be meaningful in an eBook.

—Silently corrected a few typos.

—Retained publication information from the printed edition: this eBook is public-domain in the country of publication.

—In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by _underscores_.